Dream Times

06-08-2001 Darwin

Now it is about time to bring a few lines from our part of the world.

We arrived at Cairns and checked in without any trouble. Nice people- that is the customs officers and the quarantine people.

We were welcomed by Gunnar´s wife and daughter and had a few days together before they went for a travel in Australia. Mette chose to sign off in Cairns – she wanted to go backpack to Bali and meet with some friends there.

Now Dennis and René were alone on the boat and they managed to fix a lot of things on the boat. The old lady has to be in good shape before the long trip in the Indian Ocean. But this is no problem – in spite of her 28 years she had never been in a better shape.

Lise, René´s sweetheart, arrived at Cairns in order to join us to Darwin and probably also to spend a little time with René. And while René and Lise enjoyed each other’s company Dennis went diving on the outside of Great Barrier Reef together with Susan’s cousin, Teresa, and her boyfriend Martin together with two of their friends, Tajo and Henrik. They arrived by chance a couple of days after we did and they moved in on the boat because Dennis was not to be left alone (René and Lise had moved to a hotel).They had 6 dives in two days! Terrific dives but the water was not as clear as we had seen it in the Pacific but we saw a lot of fish and mussels at the size of a small washing maschine. They call them Giant Clamps. When you touch them they close. You can actually put your whole arm into them and if you are lucky you can get it out again!! They do not close so hard, it is as if there are big lips to close up and they are so soft that you easily can full your arm out. Exciting to try - especially the first time!

Then we sailed along Great Barrier Reef in sheltered waters and this was the most terrific sail we had ever made-crystal clear water, no waves or old sea and magnificent wind. It is marvellous to navigate among the many islands, reefs and cays that you find all the way along the east cost of Australia. Always something exciting to look at – at times you had to mind one's P's and Q's in order to get round the natural obstacles. The nature of Northern Australia is impressive. Close to the shore you could see the most striking mountain- and rock formations in all sorts of colours and at the reefs the landscape was filled with uninhibited atolls everyone covered with lots of mangrove trees. Here we were with the spinnaker and Lise at the helm-you cannot -  it couldn't be better even Lise enjoyed the sail because we were very steady and still moving at a speed of 6-7 knots. You have to try it is not explicable- sorry!!

We made a few cosy stops on our way to Darwin. The first one was at Lizard Island, a small island at the size of a shopping centre. We anchored deep into a lagoon and a few nanoseconds later we were swimming in the crystal-clear water. We could not dive here because it was only 7-10 m deep but we snorkelled instead.-Then you can move more easily because you do not have to carry the heavy weight on your back. You get used to hold your breath and Dennis and René are able to hold it for about 2 minutes- that is if they do not use too much energy submerging. At night we enjoyed a nice meal and the good red wine Lise brought from the aeroplane. We turned in pretty early because we had decided to climb to the only vantage point on the island early in the morning. It is best to go early because in the middle of the day it is so warm that it is hard to do anything but lie in the water or sit in the shade with a lukewarm beer(..our fridge finally got its deathblow) On our way up Lise suddenly screamed because she saw Goanna Lizard, a giant liazard. It is not actually dangerous but it acts aggressively defending its territory and it makes the sound of a snake.

It was a terrific view at the top and you could see everything from the mainland to the outer reef. This was the place Cook found his passage, Cooks Passage, of course.

After a quick swim we left for Portland Road. Here we met the police who drove a four-wheeler and they offered to drive us to a nice beach 10-12 km away and even to bring us back. During our stay on the beach they went to visit an aboriginal tribe. Nice people in Australia. When we came back to the boat we invited them in for a cup of coffee and had a nice chat about crime, aboriginals and crocodiles. Actually a crocodile of 4.5m was seen at the exact same place as we had left our dinghy. As an example of the hospitality we were met with was the offer we were given : we had run out of toothpaste and one of the policemen offered to drive us 250 km back to their base to get it and then return us the next day – when he was off duty. Too wild and we did not avail ourselves of the offer. We were not desperate.

The rest of the trip to Darwin went nicely and the notorious “Torres Straedes” north of Australia was covered without troubles. We had a couple of fine stops at Thursday Island, Black Rock and Crocker Island.

We had hardly arrived at Darwin before we were invited to Enne´s 50 year’s birthday. He sails Nordstjerne, another Danish boat. In fact we are quite a Danish colony here. 4½ Danish boats are staying here: Nordstjernen, Condor, St. Ludmilla and ourselves plus Liselotte which includes a Swedish man and Danish woman. We had a terrific party and Dennis was sent to bed. But it was 5 o’clock-so..

On 27. July it was Dennis´birthday and the first part of our new crew arrived. Christian (Dennis´ little brother) and two of Dennis´ sea scouts, Claus and Christoph) were fetched at the airport early in the morning. When they arrived the first party had just ebbing away but was soon re-established- but at on a low flame.

24 hours later Michael (Rene’s big brother arrived) and the new crew was assembled. Lise is still on board and now we are 7 on the little boat but it is a question of will and it works nicely.

We have stayed in Darwin for almost 10 days and spend the days hunting crabs and preparing the boat for the Indian Ocean.

We also made a great trip to Kakadu, the national park. We rented a minibus for 4 days. Jesper, a young Danish guy from one of the other ships came along. We drove many km the first day and visited an aboriginal centre with good information of the area. Then we left for our first overnight accommodation. Rather expensive-about 100 kr each for a dirty room for 10. The following day we went on a boat trip to watch crocodiles. Great success lots of crocks and we can tell you they don’t exactly look friendly. We also saw old “graffiti” (caveman art) 3 waterfalls and enjoyed ourselves swimming, jumping from cliffs etc. We had a long drive back to Darwin. On our last day we saw Kathrine Gorge, a place where a river runs through steep cliffs- beautiful but touristy and ups we had a speeding ticket too. We drove 1200 km but this is only a small fraction of Australia. A huge country.

Now we start a lot of sailing from here and to the Maldives - a long distance and the time is scarce. Lise leaves for Denmark 8. August und we plan to leave on the 10th

Nice greetings from the crew 

 

 

 

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